Research Information System
Industria Textila, vol.71, no.2, pp.105-111, 2020 (SCI-Expanded)
© 2020 Inst. Nat. Cercetare-Dezvoltare Text. Pielarie. All rights reserved.Sewing quality is an important factor that contributes to the overall quality of an end-product. Sewing quality compromises different components such as bending, seam strength, seam slippage, elasticity etc. Among these components, bending has a special importance because of causing changes in appearance, sensorial comfort and drape of a garment. Therefore, in this study, effects of stitch type and seam direction on the bending rigidities of sewn fabrics were evaluated and compared. A polyester woven fabric which is suitable for sportswear was sewn with three basic stitch types (lock stitch, chain stitch and overlook stitch), in 5 different directions (warp, weft, 30°, 45° and 60° angles). As reference, samples without stitches were tested, too. Bending properties of samples were determined via heart loop method. According to the results, sewing increased the fabric bending rigidity. The degree of bending rigidity increment was dependent on the stitch type. Highest bending rigidity values were obtained for overlook stitched samples those were approximately 4 times higher when compared to non-sewn reference samples. Thickness of sewn parts was in accordance with the bending rigidity results. For oriented seams, bias sewing especially for 45' oriented samples, showed the most advantageous bending results. This study showed the usability of heart loop method for sewn samples via consistent results for different stitch types and seam directions.