ECO-FRIENDLY APPROACH ON WOOL PRETREATMENT AND EFFECT ON THE WOOL STRUCTURE AND DYEABILITY


Türkoğlu G. C., Avcı B. B., Erkan G., Özen C., Tozan Rüzgar Ş., Akkaya A.

2nd International Congress on Wool and Luxury Fibres-ICONWOOLF 2022, Tekirdağ, Türkiye, 20 Mayıs 2022, ss.63-70

  • Yayın Türü: Bildiri / Tam Metin Bildiri
  • Basıldığı Şehir: Tekirdağ
  • Basıldığı Ülke: Türkiye
  • Sayfa Sayıları: ss.63-70
  • Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi Adresli: Evet

Özet

In this research, the effect of various proteolytic enzymatic pretreatment on morphological and

chemical features, and dyeability properties of wool fibers were investigated. Scoured merino

wool fibers are treated with protease, papain, trypsin, and pepsin in specified conditions. Each

enzyme activity measurement was provided by appropriate methods such as Bradford, BAPNA,

and BSA spectroscopy. The enzyme solutions were prepared at a concentration of 1 mg/mL.

Enzymatic processes were carried out for 24h in the incubator set at 40 °C, 100 rpm stirring

speed at the temperature and specified pH. Whiteness index (Stensby) and yellowness index

(ASTM D 1925) were examined after enzymatic pretreatment. Trypsin treated wool fibers

showed the highest whiteness index (59.6) while untreated wool fibers have 52.2. FT-IR was

employed for the investigation of chemical changes. The increase in intensity of amide-related

bands and hydroxyl bands after enzymatic treatment was observed. SEM photomicrographs

revealed the cuticle layer is partially removed in enzyme-treated fibers. Elemental identification

was provided by SEM-EDX. It appears that the sulfur bonds are decreased after the treatment

and the pepsin-treated fibers have fewer bonds of all. In order to examine the damage to the

structure, photomicrographs were taken using fluorescence and light microscope. The alkali

solubility test (ASTM D1283) was also conducted to compare different enzyme types. Wool

fibers were dyed in 2.0% concentration with reactive dyestuff. Dyeability (K/S) and

colorimetric features of fibers were measured by a Minolta CM 3600d spectrophotometer. The

washing fastness test showed that all the samples have good results and the color change after

washing was negligible in enzyme-treated samples (grade 5) compared to untreated wool fibers

(grade 4-5).