İstanbul Aydın Üniversitesi Aydın Sanat Dergisi, cilt.9, sa.17, ss.69-90, 2023 (Hakemli Dergi)
This study is a woven fabric design method proposal in which the different stages of the process
are reduced by using natural dyestuff in a single dyebath. Although a natural dye with low light
fastness such as onion peel and an environmentally harmful metal mordant such as copper sulfate (CuSO₄.5H₂O) was used in one example, sustainable dyeing can be done by making the dyeing
ingredients more suitable. The novelty of this study is that different fiber raw materials with
different dyeing capacities, form a fabric surface with the weaving technique, and fabric designs
that reach different colors or tones in one step by dyeing in a single dye bath are provided. In
the study, the dyeing processes are an element that completes the weaving design. Within the
scope of this study, it is also aimed to bring design proposals that support the concepts of natural
production, waste management, and slow fashion, which are the subtitles of sustainability. Our
dobby weaving design applications and three jacquard design simulations were carried out by
using the data on the colour/texture effects obtained from the preliminary trials. Due to the use
of yarns with different raw materials in weaving, it was possible to reach the most colour tones
and therefore different pattern regions by performing a one-bath dyeing process. At the same
time, sustainability was supported by preventing the loss of labour, materials, and time with this
type of dyeing method. In the context of slow fashion practice; it is thought that this study, which
is carried out with the aim of keeping traditional production methods alive and adopting production methods in which dyeing process steps are minimised, will set a innovative and creative
example for dobby and jacquard woven fabric designs.